It was style week, simmered down, decluttered, honed into an environment friendly, well timed mannequin.
Small however stylish, from the illuminated tree within the centre of the courtyard that was normal right into a catwalk to the stay jazz music enjoying within the background, Style Pakistan Week (FPW) had a cultured vibe to it.
Espresso and pizza had been served within the refreshingly brief break in the course of the exhibits, eliminating the potential of style fatigue! Not that FPW was fatiguing. The hair and make-up, fumbling on the primary day, was a lot better on at the present time, choosing the muted, pastel tones that had been secure however labored effectively sufficient.
Additionally, a present that brilliantly began on time — 7:30pm, as promised on the invite — and ended by a chaste 9pm, permitting you to make dinner plans, take pleasure in post-fashion week banter and make even probably the most garish style exhibits extra tolerable.
However even when made tolerable, even when considered via rose-tinted glasses glossed over by the elegant environment, dangerous style will all the time be dangerous. Garish garments can be garish. And the fabulous ones can be fabulous. There was loads of mediocrity on the catwalk, some actually dangerous collections after which, some spurts of fabulousness that made you cheer.
The power in Shamsha Hashwani’s Surriya lay in its particulars. The trousseau wedding-wear line got here glittering with swirls of dainty, meticulous embroidery, positioned prettily on conventional silhouettes. It was formal-wear however by no means OTT and fairly interesting.
Having stated this, there was nothing new to the gathering. From the pastel palette that has been seen on runways a trillion occasions earlier than to the floral elaborations that had been very fairly and but didn’t provide a brand new tackle design — it was a lineup that was far too secure for style week.
Surriya will promote effectively within the marriage ceremony circuit — I don’t doubt it — however will or not it’s a memorable assortment? I doubt that.
The gathering was referred to as Amnesia and it got here with the reason that you just are inclined to overlook all the things else whenever you put on nice garments. In fact, Maheen Khan knew that she was placing out a superb assortment.
There was a straightforward breezy confidence to the garments, one honed over many years of designing expertise. The material got here draped, woven polka dots moulded into careless shrugs and jackets, slinky, seductive kaftan attire bared from a single shoulder, designs that stood out with out attempting too onerous. She could also be one in all Pakistan’s most senior designers however Maheen Khan’s spirit is indubitably younger.
What additionally drew the attention was the material. The gathering had been created in collaboration with Karachi’s Hilal Silk Palace and likewise integrated the hand-loomed Koya cloth that has been the designer’s longtime undertaking. The pure silks had been actually lovely and Maheen wielded them with a wizardry that’s so distinctively her personal.
Whereas the gathering’s palette was predominantly black, gray and gold, the final outfit was a robe in white silk, paired with a gold stole and a translucent veil. Maybe this was the designer’s tackle a marriage robe? The material itself stood out however I’ve to confess, that I most well-liked the draped, slinky assertion put on that had preceded this final one.
Sameer Sain’s formal vary of Jap menswear was dizzying. The very first design, a black on black sherwani worn by mannequin Shahzad Noor was maybe the very best within the assortment.
What adopted, nonetheless, had been shirts that had been laden with far an excessive amount of bling. Kurtas and sherwanis in darkish shades paired with white chooridars that caught out obviously. Lowers in the identical hue would have labored a lot better.
Over embellished and much too paying homage to garments one has seen earlier than, there wasn’t a lot within the assortment that was catwalk worthy.
As a younger model with a rising market presence, Zaaviay was very evidently eyeing retail with its assortment of wedding-wear. The colors flowed out in vibrant blends and the silhouettes had been totally conventional.
The becoming may have been higher in sure outfits (the primary one worn by mannequin Saba Sikander involves thoughts), however typically, it was sellable wedding-wear. It was, nonetheless, not distinctive. The embroideries and the colors have all been seen earlier than. The styling was very ‘impressed’ — Sana Safinaz began enjoying with funky eye-glasses a protracted, very long time in the past.
Style week, ideally, must be a platform the place new concepts get initiated and sartorial statements set in movement. Sadly, as on this case, the predominant intuition for commerce typically makes the catwalk little greater than a clothes rack at an attire retailer. It could possibly be an interesting clothes rack however nonetheless, that’s all it’s.
Sana Abbas’ atelier has been rising little by little over time, extending from a web-based retail presence to at least one on the catwalk now, with its debut at FPW.
The designer’s Gulnaaz featured quintessential wedding-wear, traversing an interesting palette that ran from pastels to stable blocks of vibrant color labored with embroideries that had been undeniably very neat. The silhouettes had been conventional — I can see so many of those garments working effectively at weddings.
Having stated this, I want Sana Abbas had opted for extra distinctive traces. As a designer new to the style week circuit, it will be significant that she develops a signature with the intention to keep away from getting misplaced in a bling-infested, all too fairly cloud of formal put on.
Gogi by Hassan Riaz
Gogi by Hassan Riaz has a penchant for costumery, for wildly fantastical creations which can be a mishmash of color, construction and embellishment. After reviewing a number of of his collections, I’ve come to the conclusion that that is what he enjoys. I’ll wax on endlessly about how commerce is taking up experimentation at native style weeks however on the different finish of the spectrum, there’s Gogi, who wasn’t serious about commerce in any respect.
The gathering, verbosely titled Desert Rosette, The Faunas Imaginative Orchard, was in Christmassy pink and inexperienced and replete with particulars: some pleats right here, a bunch of roses there, ruffles, sequins, feathers and an equestrian contact added in with a horse’s head coming out now and again — typically in very unusual locations as within the show-stopping outfit worn by Nadia Hussain. A few of the fashions wore vibrant glittery masks, maybe as a nod to the coronavirus.
One may get fully overwhelmed by the intense flamboyance of all of it however sifting previous it, I attempted to zone in on the small print and found some distinctive florals combined in on the canvas. Why didn’t the designer place them on a cleaner palette? They might hardly be appreciated contemplating the entire overdose of particulars.
Even when he does take pleasure in elaborate theatrics, Gogi may restrict them to at least one or two outfits or to the styling alone. To have a complete assortment burdened with fairly a lot made me really feel like I used to be at a dressing up celebration, not style week.
The day was saved, nonetheless, by the final present; Delphi by designer Nida Tapal, working crochet into glamorous, standout garments.
There have been body-hugging robes, saris, skirts, capes and actress Nausheen Shah walked out because the showstopper, carrying a full size shirt created in multicoloured thread-work. Absolutely embellished, twinkling with zardozi, it was formal sufficient for a dulhan however with out the same old, fairly boring swathes of embroidery. Even the colors had been distinctive — a shade of gray overlapped with gentle pastel shades however so not like all the various, many pastels that drone on and on at style weeks.
The Delphi signature was very recognisable — no different Pakistani atelier works with crochet fairly as effectively — and from the hues to the small print, there have been new concepts right here, new sartorial prospects. Whereas Delphi might solely often floor on to the catwalk, it’s a label that has been round for a very long time.
Equally, the one different assortment that actually made a mark on the second day of FPW was by Maheen Khan, one other veteran designer — in actual fact, one in all Pakistani style’s pioneers. Eschewing the urge to resort to primary floral embroideries and fairly colors, each designers labored inside their specific aesthetics and created absolute statement-wear.
That, exactly, is what style week must be all about. A minimum of these two collections understood the drill. And two are higher than none in any respect.